Rottweiler var en kortfilm jag åkte ner till stockholm för att fota förra vintern. Jag fotade nog allt utom den inledande steady-cam-åkningen. Det var snabba puckar hela vägen och efter att dom gradeat alltihop och jag arbetat lite på effekter så ser den ju ganska hyffsad ut.
Regi: Joakim Hammond
Jag har planerat att göra iordning VFX-breakdowns… så det kommer så småningom.
I’ve been shooting video with my 7D ever since I got one from the Marianne-shoot. But as with most people, there are a few things that have always bothered me with Canons stock-firmware. And it’s been ignored so far by their development team (in order to, it seems, protect their video-departments).
Enter Magic Lantern. A firmware add-on that has been releasing the full power of Canon Cameras since the first hacks of the 5DmII. As of a couple of weeks ago the 7D’s infrastructure has been deemed unhackable by the developers because of the dual Digic CPU-system employed by Canon. But then, suddenly. Seemingly from out of nowhere. A user named g3gg0 posted that he cracked the code. And now… an Alpha firmware add-on is released.
If you’re wondering why I keep calling it a firmware add-on, well. It’s because it is. In order to use it. You have to update canons firmware to v2.0.3 and then load a file-structure into your CF-card and then for each time you power up the camera, you go into the menu and do the update again with the modified .fir file. This won’t actually write anything new to the cameras firmware-flash-memory. Instead it’s just a way for ML to launch it’s code into RAM. For more details about that… look up the site: http://www.magiclantern.fm/whats-new/104-releases/140-first-7d-alpha-released
Why am I excited? Well. Because, even while it is a limited feature release. It still has two of the main draws for me of the ML features. 1: Custom Crop-Marks and 2: Live View Contrast and Saturation adjustments.
I’ll explain:
Custom Cropmarks. I love Cinemascope in all it’s forms. From the anamorphic origins on 35mm 4 perf film to the not so distortion-heavy simple Techniscope and Super35 crops. But shooting for a scope crop in mind has been quite a hassle. There are some workarounds. I have tried taping scotch-tape onto the display to mask out the top and bottom. But that backfires when playing back since the playback is off-set vertically from the recording. And another aproximation is to use the 4×4 grid, since it’s rather close to what a Scope-cropmark would be. But it disappears when recording and doesn’t show at all at playback. In other words… useless.
Then I installed Magic Lantern. It has the ability to load custom BMP files as cropmarks. And while the ones provided did have Scope variations. I wasn’t all happy with how they were made. Luckily at ML there’s guides how to make functional BMP-files yourself and following those guides I made a set of crop-marks that has solid blacks outside of what I want to frame. This lets me concentrate fully on what I’m filming and ignore everything outside of it. Because I’ll just crop it out later.
Added bonus: In the menu there’s the ability to show the cropmark in playback. I’m so happy! And it’s properly adjusted to match up with the playbacks vertical offset too! Wee!
I have however noticed that a few times. The cropmark won’t go back to proper vertical position when switched back to recording mode. But re-launching the cropmark usually remedies this.
Live View Contrast and Saturation Adjustments Since a lot of us are shooting with Technicolors Cinestyle PictureStyle or other super-flat versions. A good preview of what the final image will look like is sometimes a hard job to do mentally. One workaround so far has been to have a second picture style set up that looks like a graded image and then switch to CineStyle manually before recording. While this works. It does create an opportunity for errors if you forget to switch styles. And you don’t get to see the contrasty image when recording
So in ML there’s a feature that allows us to adjust the contrast and saturation of the live-view feed. This means that we’ll get to see the image with more contrast and still shoot with the gradeable Cinestyle without having to switch between them all the time.
There’s also Zebras and Peaking. Though I haven’t had too much success using the Peaking in this version. I do however love the Zebra. Using the Luma-range and only showing what’s over 99% I get instant feedback of what’s blowing out.
Then there’s the Waveforms and histograms. Great features. Especially since I can even adjust it to show what channels are blowing out and how many pixels are blowing out in each channels. I keep these on constantly now.
I am not very fond of the option to hide menu-items using the menu-button. Mostly because the first dozen of times I pressed it it just went dark and things started dissapearing. Since I saw no indication that this was the intended behavior I was ready to report it as a bug. But I saw the tiny text. I still accidentally press it. But at least, now I know what it’s doing. I don’t like it. But according to the replies in the ML-forum they’re keeping this function.
Also. I think that it’s very confusing of them to sometimes use SET to enter sub-menus and sometimes I have to use Q-Menu (also making me accidentally hit Menu some more) for the same deal when it only shuts of the feature instead of letting me adjust it. Again. Judging from the ML-forum. This is unlikely to change. And I guess I’ll just have to live with it and relearn my button-habits for each and every menu item.
I might be sounding negative about those aspects. But overall I love this release! 😀 It’s not perfect… no… and it’ll improve greatly when they enable ML to load automatically during bootup. What are you waiting for?! Get it! (though remember that it probably isn’t covered in warranties).
As I mentioned earlier. I have been not just a tiny bit impressed with what the NEAT denoiser can do for video. And looking through some footage I had in the archives I decided to see what I could do to make the, in many ways horribly shot, footage look a bit nicer. And the choice finally fell upon a clip I had shot almost at midnight here in the jamtlandish forest while a team from SyFy where here to try to find our own little loch ness monster.
It’s in the land of the midnight sun, but still, I had only the f3.6-f6.5 zoom-lens and of course, the people where sitting in the shadow to not interfere with the filming that took place all around. So, since I have sworn to the allmighty noodily lord and his midgits that I would never use any shutter wider than 180 degrees I ended up shooting with very high ISO-gain on the 7D-sensor. And also, of course, the Technicolor CineStyle picture-style was brand-spanking-new so I was trying out that too.
All this meaning some great noise. 🙂
Anways… This is what I started out with.
Might not look so bad. But then again. Cropping to scope does tend to make most videos more cinematic, regardless of content (sarcasm). But nontheless. There are some pretty big issues abound in the image that even me with my simplistic monitor can spot.
First off. She’s blue… almost purple. And while there are a lot of Navi-fans out there I doubt they are enough to warrant me leaving her looking like an alien. So I had to focus on getting the skin-tones right. So after giving it the simple Neat-video with my noise-profile I had lying around and a slight sharpening on the Luminance I set to work.
The difference is slight. But if you pull it up to bigger view you will see that there’s some serious noise in the raw pic’s red jacket and in the image overall. And if I don’t pull out that noise right now it will only look worse when I’m pushing the colors around. As I will be doing rather severely.
So I drop in my trusty Colorista II and in the primary I simply ctrl-pick a part of the jackets white part as white-balance. That’s it. For starters I just want it neutralized. This was the “color-correction” bit of the process. Now let’s get “artistic”.
Since the skintones has actually started to look like skin with the simple adjustment I go in and do a simple warm-highlights and cool shadows-type of look in the master-section of Colorista.
Oddly enough. I rarely do this by actually touching the wheel for “shadows”. Because that tends to darken down the shadows far too much and tint the whole shot in the wrong way. Instead I go for the midtones. And I know this sounds crazy. Since this is where skintones is supposed to live. But if you look at the talent. Her skin is actually probably already some of the brightest parts of the image. Sometimes this reverse-tactic does backfire. But the result is still a standard push-pull to get it to look great. And while I’m at it I go into the curve-editor to bring in a custom contrast-curve.
A lot better. But still. Let’s do what I’ve been told women spend a lot of their time doing when they expect to be seen by a lot of people. I myself don’t think it’s always necessary. But hey. I’m practicing a little hollywood-style right now, so let’s go a bit shallow with what’s considered beautiful. Just for practice… ok.
So here’s where I found de-noising to really help out while grading. For comparison I took two screen-shots of using the same key sample-area on the same footage with and without the de-noising beforehand:
Now, while the un-de-noised version is useable if you do some blurring of the key it does feel rather wasteful and you are loosing a bit of definition of the edges in the process. So in my mind the denoised one is a clear winner. But then in this example I did end up blurring it allthewhile but I hope you see the potential here.
So back on topic here. Using a rather wide sample of the skin I got a nice key and went ahead to warm it up a bit further while also adding in a negative pop to even out her skin a bit and topping it off with a slight rasing in exposure. Since the key keeps the negative pop and warming where it should be without interfering with the details in the eyes and lips, I can be a bit agressive with those adjustments. -55 on the pop is probably a bit heavy-handed. But heh… it it’s already rendered… So what am I supposed to do? And it doesn’t seem to bother the guy in the back even.
(adding a negative doesn’t that result in zero?!)
Then, I felt rather done with her. But the red jacket in the background did feel a bit obtrusive. So on a second adjustment-layer I added another colorista and went into its secondary keyer. Sampled the red jacket. And just pulled down its saturation and brightness a bit.
And while I was just about to call it done I found myself looking at the lips. And I wondered. Could I maybe do digital lipstick? It sounded a bit off. But I’m not one to shy away from what’s supposed to be stupid. So I simply added another adjustment layer and another colorista. This time with a big power-mask (the first time I used the powermask-feature in this “project”) over the lip-area. A simple key and color-adjustment later and suddenly she had a not too tasteless adding of lip-pigmentation (anyone who’s actually knowledgeable about makeup probably disagrees with my wording and estethics. But at least I tried. 🙂 )
So in closing, don’t let me forget what the title was. Because now I’ve gone from this:
To this:
Without it ending up looking like this:
The difference might be slight. And probably even neglibe on the web as youtube and such. But trust me, in motion. You will be glad to not see that noise dance around, distracting you eyes from what’s important in the scene (I spent two hours in Oldenburg looking at grain-structure btw. It was booooooring… and the film wasn’t great either).
Jahapp. Medan alla andra var ute och söp skallen av sig kände jag mig riktigt helylle när jag åkte ut på gården för att fira midsommarafton. Vi tog en extra sväng för att jag ville hämta kameran och med finfint väder samt lite tur gavs det möjligheter att få ta riktigt fina bilder. Lite lätt redigerat med photoshop.
Märk väl förresten att det jag föredrar skarpt och rena linser… (inget j****a instagram här inte… för i h****e)
Svettig dag idag. Men Planet B-videon jag nyligen nämnde gick riktigt bra och vi fick visa den två gånger för samma publik på samma duk.
Nu har Robert Singleton laddat upp videon på youtube. Musikanten Erik Wennergren har lagt ut musiken på spotify och itunes.Direkta länkar dit kan jag inte just nu hitta… jag är lite utanför den “hippa” musikvärlden… har varken itunes eller spotify. Men släng gärna in länk i kommentarfält så lägger jag upp det också här i inlägget.
Tänkte bara lite snabbt skvallra om ett par projekt som är på gång att bli klara här. Dels en kortfilm jag fotat åt en herr Joakim Hammond. Och dels en musikvideo där jag skötte kamera på inspelning och färdigställer nu i dessa stunder efterarbetet inför premiär på onsdag nere på Folkets Bio Regina här i östersund.
Rottweiler
Kortfilmen är en ganska simpel historia som han, regissören mest ville köra som en kul grej. Men det växte och blev slutprojektet. Till den fick jag erfara hur RED-One faktiskt fungerar i praktiken. Och, ska jag vara ärlig. Om man inte ska re-framea i efterarbetet och behöver extra-upplösningen, då vetetusan om jag skulle bry mig om krånglet som den kameran innebar. Visst, den reella upplösningen i optimala situationer överskrider på långa vägar min egna 7D. Men jag slogs också över hur brusig bilden var redan vid, vad jag själv kallar låga ISO-värden… alltså, strax över 800. Det blev snyggt, ja. Men jag är tveksam till att 7D’n skulle ge så mycket sämre bild i samma situation. Och med 7D’n har jag inte haft problem alls med krascher mitt i tagning. Glödhet kamerakropp och allmänt extremt meck för att ens få den startklar.
Planet B
Musikvideon var mera av en slump att jag kom in i. Regissören Robert Singleton bjöd in vänner och bekanta för musikvideoinspelning under frösöbron. Efter lite snack kom han fram till att han ville ha vidare vinkel än hans Micro4/3 med 14mm lins kunde erbjuda. Min 7D med 11mm linsen blev då weapon of choice.Så under inspelning fungerade jag lite som DIT och såg till att själva kameratekniken var så lite problematisk som möjligt samt kontrollerade att inställningarna gav en användbar bild allteftersom tiden fortskred och uppsättningen för den långa tagningen flyttades allt längre fram på inspelningsdagen.Många saker skulle klaffa, men det var ingen fara på det taket. Två tagningar i slutänden och vi var klara.
Inspelad med ISO 400 och f11 på bländaren för att få tillräckligt skärpedjup. Gick tillochmed och slog på Highlight Priority och körde Neutral Picture Style enligt Prolosts rekommendationer (han skulle nog dock avråda från HP) Alldeles galet alltså enligt gängse traditioner om vad som är “filmlook”, men ok. Jag kompenserade lite för det genom att ha en ganska agressiv orange-blå grading. 😉 Vi får se hur det här slutar. Men jag tror den blir riktigt snygg efter att ha brusreducerat den och gjort första genomgången med färgkorr och grading.
TsuDuKu…
Men hur dessa två projekt barkar i slutändan får vi inte veta förrän onsdag för musikvideon och nästa vecka för kortfilmen. Jag återkommer då med ordentligt med bildexempel på hur saker gjorts och tankar bakom de olika stegen.
Om bara några minuter så går långfilmen Marianne upp på SVT2. Och med det har den rört i princip alla sätt att se film jag kan komma på… förutom BluRay och VoD… men det lär väl ändras det också.
Förresten är jag inte så säker på VoD heller… Men jag hoppas så många som möjligt ser filmen. Jag ska ju ha vinstdelning ändå. 😉
Då var man ut igen på familjegården och den här gången kom kameran med för att undersöka en konstig utväxt. Men det gick inte undgå från att djuren var så fina att dom måste fotograferas.
Cloud (med MS-programmen) 595 SEK per månad… eller 7 140 SEK
Uppgraderingen låter billigare, men då har man redan först köpt MS5.5 för uppemot samma pris som nya MS för ett år sedan… Så Adobe nästan slopar ingångskostnaden och ger bort alla sina program för en lite högre uppgraderingskostnad istället… Och 595 kr är ju ändå mycket lättare att hosta upp än nästan 35 000 kr för att ens komma in i systemet. 🙂
—
Rättelse:
I svenska Adobe-Store finns Cloud för 516 kr per måne vid helårsprenumeration… det blir… 6 192 kr… alltså tillochmed 483 kr BILLIGARE än vanliga uppgraderingskostnaden! 🙂
So I found some stock footage we recorded last year and slowed it down to 24fps (it was shot in 720p 60fps), and for some random reason I tried slapping the colorama effect on it. That didn’t really zing. So I tried another preset. The Golden. I think I had something. I then remapped the black to black and white to white and… holy shit! SPLOSIONS!
The Title isn’t all that thought out. I just wanted some text. Random Acts of Violence didn’t really fit so for some reason I went with Walking on Sunshine. Why? Because American Psycho, that’s why! 😀
Out of the blue in the days of NAB we get rumors from Canon Rumors that the 7D will possibly be getting an “extensive” firmware upgrade. Since Canon and most other manufacturers has so far mostly treated firmwares as spelling-error-fixes (and fucking with hackers-upgrades) I’m not convinced about anything until we see the final outcome. But as the mill starts churning I’ll throw in my own suggestions in this here blog that no-one reads anyways.
Things I would like to see in a firmware update for the Canon 7D that rarely, if ever gets any mention (in no particular order):
Oldschool film-trigger: In the olden days of small-gauge film (8 and 16mm) running time was expensive. So home-filming cameras were equipped with a very conservative feature. The camera would only record while the record-button was pressed. This made for short bursts of filming and never were we faced with the situations of people forgetting if they were recording or not. If your finger (or thumb) were pressing the button, it was filming. PERIOD. And while it’s not optimal for many occasions, I would like to see some camera manufacturer provide it as an experiment. I think we would waste far less recording space with this option.
Funky Frame-sizes: This might sound silly, but in todays day and age, we shouldn’t be shackled to the standard 16×9 format. And sometimes we would probably benefit from some other frame-sizes. Like: 3:4 full sensor-filming. When we want to capture the whole sensor for some reason. This would probably mean more line-kipping, but sometimes it could be useful. 2.4:1 cropped filming. I don’t know about many other people, but I find that only filming what I would get would be very intriguing. 4:3 full sensor-height filming. Why? Well, both for filming old school academy standard ratio like they did in the olden days and also for… Anamorphic filming. Shoot with an anamorphic lens that with clever Pixel Aspect Ratio’s automatically maps out and uses all available pixels. Which brings me to HOW? Well, I’m glad you asked. I imagine several ways. If the hardware is wired for 1920×1080 and refuses to budge for a compromise to give, like… 2232×929 2.4:1 video that has actually slightly less number of pixels per frame than a 1920×1080 frame that we now have to crop to obtain 1080×800 2.4:1 . or likewise 1660×1249 for 4:3, while still leaving us with far more pixels to work with in the final image. If something like that isn’t possible for technicalities, then maybe do:
Funky Pixel Aspect Ratio’s: In the middle ages of video the standard we had to live with was 4:3 and most of your widescreen DVD’s are actually only 4:3 when you count the pixels in each direction. The magic happens when we start to mess about with the shape of the pixel. A 4:3 image with 1.33:1 pixel aspect ratio widens it to full wide-screen. But nowadays the standard is already 16:9 (or 1.77) so why not sample the image from the sensor in 4:3 and store it using the full width of the 1080p-standard using 1:1.33 pixel aspect ratios? A cinemascope sample likewise could be stretched to fit the 16:9 format using the very same 1.33:1 PAR that the DVD’s used to use! Same datarates! Same everything! but in post we suddenly have quite a few more pixels to work with. We even get a slight vertical oversampling going on when we export to regular square pixels! Hooray! Or how about…
Funky Framerates! Let’s just dump the old shackle between recording-speed and playback-speed. Sometimes we just want to mess with it a bit. Sometimes we want to film a fight-scene in 22 or 20 fps, and then play it back in 24fps for a slightly sped up look. It’s barely noticeable. But it can make a difference. And with the afformentioned stuff about frame-sizes I also want to put forward a proposition to crop frame to get higher framerates. Right now, the 7D is capped at 30fps in full HD mode. But what if we only shot a 1920x800p frame? Then maybe we could increase the frame-rate while keeping the data-rate in check? Maybe 1920x800p 48fps and using funky pixel aspect ratios, 1920x400p 96fps? Should look much nicer than a 1280×533 fps crop at least.
Shutter in BOTH angles and fractions and make it lockable for projects!!!: Ok, the exclamation-marks might be uncalled for, but we have all had the problem of someone nudging the shutter and suddenly the dream-takes are unusable because it became a smeary mess or distractingly staccato for one shot. So this one is simple. Give us the option to lock the shutter at an angle in menu and then make the wheel do something else. And the greatest reason for making us able to shoot with degrees instead of fractions of seconds is that we need much less math on set to make the motion-blur match. Most of the time we want the 180degree rule. And if we lock that in the menu, that will look correct no matter what framerate we’re using. Right now it’s in seconds and we have to change it accordingly when we move from 24 to 60 fps recording-modes. It becomes one less thing to worry about on set. And it would make it much easier for the film-folks to just pick up the camera and shoot.
Push-auto record button option: Now this one is a crazy one in the same vein as the old-timey film-button mentioned earlier. But hear me out. The usual manual way is normally preferred, but there are times when we just want to pull the camera out and shoot. But auto-settings tends to screw with us because as the shot progresses it will adjust accordingly. Closing aperture while panning over a window, messing with white-balance because a blue truck drove past the scene. All that fun stuff. It’s fixable in post, but very time-consuming. So my proposal is to have a functionality that samples the first images, adjusts the exposure and white-balancing parameters and then locks them until the next time I press record, when it goes over the calibration again. It should be done within a fraction of a second and since it’s probably in live-view already it should be able to do it while I’m not filming. Just lock it when I press the button. This would make it more suitable for run&gun-filming. And if it gets it wrong it’s a steady exposure and white-balance. It’s a quick fix instead of nudging keyframes to counteract the effects over time.
Crop Marks: Just in case we don’t get the other frame-related features (pff, I wish). Then at least give us USEABLE crop-marks for video. Right now there are basically none. There are some sort of crop-marks that are all basically square and they rarely help. And when filming all that goes away. The 4×4 grid actually is pretty close to a scope-crop-mark. but again it goes away. We can tape the screen for recording but some a****** made it so that the recording image is off-set vertically compared to the playback-mode.
USEABLE peaking: It’s the ultimate focus assist in my eyes. Just look at the Sony PD150’s… copy that. end of entry.
LUT’s: A lot of people are using picture-profiles but find it hard to actually work with them on. Some even resort to flipping back and forth between CineStyle and a more graded look. This is unnecessary. Because, if the camera would just let us choose a style for recording and a different style for viewing it would make for far less mistakes and post-wrangling of colors.
Project Setups: Why not have a feature that makes it so that when you want to start a new project you enter the parameters for that project. This would include shutter-settings, playback-speed, viewing and recording-styles (see LUTs above) and other stuff that is likely not to change during project. This could then be saved out to the CF-card and when a card is inserted and the Project Setup file isn’t present a dialog would appear to ask if you want to A. save current project setup as a file on the disk or B. set up a new project.
USB-interface for keyboards and other funky things: Most cameras have USB-cables for interfacing with computers. But I have yet to see a camera that lets you hook up a keyboard to quickly input metadata. Why is this? With this we could have the camera assistant enter in current take and scene numbers as file-names or other things. Like controlling things with simple mouse-scroll-wheels. There’s a lot of possibilities here.
I’m sure I come up with more as time goes on. But of course, I wouldn’t be mad at them if they implemented in-camera ProRes 4:4:4 too. 🙂
For now, we’ll all just wait and see.
Oh and PS…
Stop worrying about hackers customizing firmwares… if it bricks… then just refuse to fix it under the warranty. Let them do some crazy things. We will all benefit and you’ll sell more cameras. 🙂
Så lagom till löning fick jag ett mail som sa att eftersom jag nu använt prövo-versionen av Toon Boom 6 så skulle jag kunna få 50 procent rabatt om jag vill köpa en licens. Det var då droppen. Dom gav mig helt enkelt inget val. Jag har blivit så förtjust i programmet att jag utan att tveka slängde iväg tusenlappen till dom så jag skulle få använda programmet gratis.
Mer info kommer nog snart i ett längre inlägg om just utbudet av animations-program och mina åsikter. Men i kort så är det så jävla skönt att ha spenderat en dag animerandes UTAN frustrerande frågor om vad fan programmerarna ville. 😀
För många därute så är namnet Mats Helge Olsson alldeles obekant. Men ända sedan Anders Nilsson pratade om starten på sin filmkarriär så har jag haft lite av en fascination av MHO. Detta på samma vis som många håller Roger Corman högt. Kunde han mäta sig med de stora samtida mästarna? Nädå. Men med ett stort Fuck You till etablissemanget och genuin önskan att göra film som slår stort världen över så pumpade dessa B-filmare ut en hel del väldans rolig underhållning. Många gånger ganska kasst rent kvalitativt. Men filmer som Ninja Mission är fåtaliga i Svenska riket.
Därför blev jag så glatt överraskad när jag snubblade över en tvådelad youtube-uppladdning om den härlige husguden i landsflykt. Inspelad troligtvis någonstans däremellan skattekaoset och landsflykten. Håll även ögona öppna för ett inhopp av just den nu mera kända Anders Nilsson (Johan Falk-filmerna) som sitter och klipper sin första långfilm.
Bilderna ovan är tagen från ett videoklipp filmat med 7D i ISO 12800. Nederst är råa bilden från h264-videon. Den använde jag Cinestyle på och ljuset är bara en 60W glödlampa… Mitten är full grading utan NEAT Video Denoise och överst är med Neat.
Klicka på bilden för full storlek (1920×800 x3). Det verkar rent idiotiskt men jag skulle nästan få för mig att filma skarpt så här… helst inte… men möjligheten är tillgänglig.Och det skulle inte vara helt omöjligt att få något så när hyffad bild i slutändan
För de som undrar hur jag gradeat så kan jag beskriva vad som ligger i lagret i After Effects
Neat Video Denoise
Levels – För att korrigera färgnivåer till neutral bild. (den här är mest justerad svartnivåer, utgående svärta är sedan ställd på 16*)
Colorista Free – lite lätt s.k. orange-teal. Skugga och högdager är mot blått, mellantoner är mot orange, mättnad ner till 0,9.
Levels igen. Den här gör egentligen inget, men jag vill gärna se ett histogram för att se vad det är jag gjort egentligen. 😉
Sedan, över det ligger det ett adjustment layer med Fast Blur. inställd på 6 och avmaskad runt sköne snubben i bild.
Lagret över den är ett adjustment layer med exponering uppdraget ett halvt steg. Detta för att på nästa lager är det också exponering, men neddraget och med maskningar för att simulera ljuskäglor på tre ställen i bild. Väldigt hög feather på dessa masker.
* Varför svart på 16?!: Ärligen talat. Jag är inte säker på det här. Men det är baserat på två saker.
Colorista Free har en tendens att dra ner svartnivån när man justerar färgen på skuggorna. Att lägga svärtan på 16 innan ger lite mer spelrum så att färgerna inte krossas ner mot svart det första de gör.
Technicolor Cinestyle har 16 svärta inbyggt. Jag antar att det finns en anledning till detta utöver bara det faktum att komma runt att h264 komprimerar väldigt dålig längst där nere i det nästan-svarta. Troligtvis har andra verktyg jag inte upptäckt än också en tendens att dra ner svärtan lite väl fort.
Återigen. Det går ju emot vad jag egentligen vill tro om hur data ska hanteras, men det verkar fungera förvånansvärt bra.
Tips för användning av Colorista Free och Neat Video tillsammans. Jag har haft vanan på slutet att göra all min grading på adjustment-layers av flera olika anledningar. Men idag upptäckte jag något av misstag. Vanligtvis så har jag rå-videon själv, över det Neat och över det färgkorrigeringar som Colorista Free. Men vanligtvis så har Colorista blivit förjävla seg. Detta tänkte jag hade att göra med NEAT och att After Effects Måste rendera om brusreduceringen för varje justering jag gör med Colorista.
Men idag råkade jag lägga NEAT och colorista på råvideo-lagret! Och lo and behold. Satan van snabb Colorista blev då!
Min gissning här är väl att om man lägger dem på samma lager så kommer AE ihåg att den redan renderat effekten innan i lagret (i det här fallet NEAT eftersom jag alltid lägger brusreducering först i tågordningen). Läggs effekten däremot i ett lager (som i fallet när jag som vanligt använder adjustment layers) ovanför. Då måste AE in och rendera NEAT för varje justering av Colorista. Detta kan dra ut på tiden rejält om det vill sig illa.
…
Jag undrar vilka andra effekter man kan snabba upp genom att lägga dom i råvideolagret?
Jaja, långt och förvirrat blev det idag. Avslutar med en bild på Skivspelarn jag fick hem från lagning idag!